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Self-leveling epoxy that pours flat and glossy

Self-leveling epoxy is a thick resin pour that spreads out and settles flat on its own, leaving a smooth, glossy finish with no roller marks. It’s a finish coat, and it only works on a slab that’s already close to flat.

Fresh copper metallic epoxy pour with blue tape still on the wall edge

What it is

Epoxy floors. All epoxy services

Self-leveling epoxy is a pourable epoxy that flows more freely than a roll-on coat. It’s poured in ribbons, spread with a gauge rake, and rolled with a spiked roller to pop air bubbles, then gravity does the rest. It settles into a flat, glassy layer thicker than a standard coat, which gives a solid-color floor real depth and makes it easy to clean. You see it in showrooms, clean back rooms and modern homes where people want a plain, polished look. Metallic floors are often poured the same way, but this page is about solid color.

Self-leveling epoxy is the resin finish that goes on top once the floor is flat.

The name confuses people. Self-leveling epoxy fixes roller marks and small surface texture. It does not fix a sloped slab, a sunken corner or a dip in the middle of a shop. Resin finds the low spot and collects there, so it ends up thick in the dips and thin on the high spots, and the color can shade differently between them. A pour also can’t hide cracks; they need to be filled and ground first or they’ll show up as lines.

That’s where its twins come in. Concrete floor leveling is a cement-based underlayment we pour first to fill low spots and slopes, and concrete floor flattening handles high spots and humps by grinding them down. Some floors need only the epoxy; some need leveling first. We check the slab with a long straightedge when we come out and tell you which one your floor needs.

Where it belongs

Showrooms and retail floors

A flat, glossy solid color that makes product stand out and mops clean.

Modern homes

Gray, white or black floors through open living spaces with no grout lines.

Clean back rooms

Smooth surfaces with nowhere for dust to hide, easy to wipe down.

Offices and studios

Floors that look polished and stay easy to keep clean under chairs and foot traffic.

What goes in it

  1. Diamond grind, then cracks and joints filled flush.
  2. Leveling underlayment first, only if the slab needs it.
  3. Epoxy primer to seal the concrete and stop bubbles from rising.
  4. Self-leveling epoxy body coat, poured, raked and back-rolled.
  5. Clear or tinted top coat for UV and scratch resistance.

We won’t sell you self-leveling epoxy as a fix for a sloped floor, because the resin will just pool on the low side and show you exactly where the problem was.

How we install it

  1. 1

    Check flatness

    We lay a straightedge across the slab to find dips before anyone talks about color.

  2. 2

    Grind and fill

    We grind, vacuum and fill every crack and joint so nothing telegraphs through.

  3. 3

    Prime the slab

    A primer seals the pores so air doesn’t push up through the pour and leave pinholes.

  4. 4

    Pour and rake

    The epoxy gets poured, spread with a gauge rake and rolled with spiked rollers to release air.

  5. 5

    Top coat

    A top coat goes on after it cures, then the floor rests before traffic.

Built for desert conditions

Heat, sun, wind and sand, as they hit this kind of floor.

Talk to us about it

A self-leveling pour needs time to flow, and heat steals that time. In a hot Palmdale shop the resin can start to set before it has fully leveled, leaving ripples. In summer we’d pour early, keep material out of the sun until it’s mixed, and work in sections small enough that each one joins the last while it’s still wet.

Day-night swings cause their own trouble. As a cool slab warms in the morning, air in the concrete expands and can push bubbles up through fresh resin, which is called outgassing. That’s why the primer matters, and why we’d rather pour while the slab temperature is steady or falling. A glossy, flat floor also shows dust better than any other finish, so the doors stay shut while it cures.

Living with it

Dust-mop often, since a flat glossy floor shows every grain of sand. Mop with warm water and mild soap. Use felt pads under furniture and soft casters on chairs. Avoid dragging anything heavy. If the top coat wears in walking paths, it can be scuffed and recoated without touching the epoxy underneath.

Related services

Garage Floor Epoxy Coatings

Flake, metallic or solid garage floors built on a full diamond grind, with a top coat that handles hot tires and oil.

Metallic Epoxy Flooring

Poured metallic epoxy in copper, pearl or any color, worked by hand for showrooms, kitchens and shops.

Flake Epoxy Flooring

Colored vinyl chips broadcast into an epoxy base and sealed under a clear top coat, for garages, shops and patios.

Quartz Epoxy Flooring

Colored quartz sand broadcast into epoxy and sealed with a grout coat, for commercial kitchens, wash bays and locker rooms.

From Palmdale we cover the Antelope Valley and beyond, including Desert View Highlands, Quartz Hill, Acton, Lancaster. See finished floors in the gallery.

Questions about self-leveling epoxy flooring

Will self-leveling epoxy fix my uneven floor?

No, and anyone who says it will is setting you up for puddles. The resin flows to the low spots and gets thick there and thin on the high spots. Uneven floors get concrete leveling first, then the epoxy goes on top.

How is this different from concrete floor leveling?

Concrete floor leveling is a cement-based underlayment that fills low spots and slopes. Self-leveling epoxy is the finish you see and walk on. They often go together: leveling first, epoxy after.

What causes pinholes in a self-leveling floor?

Air coming up out of the concrete as it warms, usually through a slab that wasn’t primed. A primer coat seals the pores, and spiked rollers release trapped bubbles during the pour. Pouring while the slab is cooling instead of heating up helps too.

Can self-leveling epoxy go over tile?

Sometimes, if the tile is fully bonded and the grout lines get filled, but we’d usually rather remove the tile and coat the concrete. Loose tile under epoxy means cracked epoxy later. We will tell you which way makes sense after we look.

What colors does it come in?

Solid colors, usually grays, whites, blacks and tans, plus custom tints. Metallic floors are poured in a similar way if you want movement instead of one color. Lighter colors hide dust better; darker ones look richer and show more.

Is a glossy self-leveling floor slippery?

It can be when it’s wet, since it’s so smooth. For areas near doors, sinks or showers, we can add a fine anti-slip grit to the top coat. In dry rooms, most people leave it smooth.

Start with a
site visit.

Send a few photos of the floor and the room. we will tell you whether self-leveling epoxy flooring is the right system for it.

Call (818) 698-5011

Supremeepoxyboyz26@gmail.com

What to send and what happens next. Want proof first? See the floors.

We only use your details to get back to you about your floor.